Twine and Barrel, York – Restaurant Review
By Lisa Byrne
When On: Magazine heard that Thor star Chris Hemsworth had binned his Hollywood contract to run an upscale restaurant in North Yorkshire, we immediately booked a table. However, Marvel fanatics can breathe a sigh of relief as it turns out that the Chris Hemsworth who runs the Twine and Barrel on the Hull Road is actually a brilliant Head Chef rather than an Australian superhero.
Arriving at the Dunnington restaurant on a Sunday afternoon with our friends – York City FC manager Steve Watson and his partner, Victoria Barrett – we were greeted by the charming general manager James Platford, who’d previously worked at the famed Windsor Castle pub in Windsor.
Taken to a large oak table in a newly refurbished dining area, we sat down and ordered drinks before perusing the extensive menu. Despite it being Sunday Lunch (two courses £19, three courses £23.50), there were a variety of dishes to choose from if you didn’t wish to opt for traditional fare, and James explained that the menus were designed around food that is seasonal, delicious and local.
We ordered a selection of small plate starters which included Scotch Egg (£6.50), Haddock Fish Cake (£6) and Lemon Hummus (£5). I was rather perturbed when Steve ordered Potato Salad (£5), thinking it would be rather bland, but served with baby leeks, garlic and thyme croutons, the dish was absolutely delicious. I would also highly recommend the fishcakes which were packed with succulent lumps of haddock.
As we sipped a chilled bottle of Sauvignon Blanc and chatted about the exciting upcoming season for York City FC at its spanking new Community Stadium, Chris, who’s worked for Gordon Ramsey at London’s Savoy, prepared our main course.
James recommended the North Sea Cod Loin with mussel, chowder and samphire (£13.50) and it certainly didn’t disappoint. The mix of heady flavours of the sea gave the dish great depth – it’s definitely one I would reorder.
My daughter Brontë devoured the T&B Burger with Maple cured bacon, cave aged Cheddar and house slaw (£12). Steve, Victoria and my husband Davey opted for roast rump of beef with Yorkshire pudding, horseradish cream and gravy, served with seasonal vegetables, roast potatoes and cauliflower cheese (£14).
Discussing how dry Sunday Lunch can be in many pubs if you visit towards the end of service, they were thrilled about how tender the beef was and hailed the roast potatoes and Yorkshire Pudding as being among the best they’ve tasted in God’s Own County.
Dessert was an absolute dream. I would strongly advise gorging on the incredible Dark Chocolate Mousse with honeycomb, sea salt and white chocolate (£6) – though you may need a nap afterwards. Sticky Toffee Pudding and Citrus Tart were also devoured with gusto (both £5). Apart from serving divine food, the warm and attentive staff at Twine and Barrel take the safety of guests extremely seriously. The salubrious loos were constantly checked and cleaned, and all staff wore masks.
The Twine and Barrel is a glorious gem of a restaurant. The interior décor is serene and calming with beautiful industrial style lighting and plush furnishings, creating a great atmosphere in which to relax and savour the food. The vast array of dishes are absolutely heavenly, and we cannot wait to return together with our lovely friends.
Twine and Barrel, Hull Road, Dunnington, York, YO19 5LP