Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill, Hull – Restaurant Review

By Roger Crow

It’s one of those autumnal Sundays when the heavens have opened; there’s so much standing water on the roads, it’s a wonder a Beach Boys tribute act weren’t playing by the side of the surfing trucks.

The reason for our 20-plus mile trek to Hull is to try out the Sunday lunch menu at Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill, and I’ll be honest: given the weather, I had thought of cancelling.

But press on we do, and after parking at the Doubletree Hilton car park, and getting soaked navigating our way round the block, before long we have a window seat, a menu and a chance to dry off at MPW’s.

Two years earlier, almost to the day, we had reviewed the same Marco Pierre White restaurant. It was that strange time between Covid spells (not like we’re out of the woods now, obviously), and the novelty of going for dinner anywhere was still fresh. It’s good to be back, though naturally there a sense of deja vu.

I start with Marco’s Classic Caesar Salad, which is a great way to ease into the meal, as is the jar of potted olives. Couldn’t taste the Caesar’s avocado, and no sign of a hen’s egg as promised on the menu, but the salty anchovies were a great counterpoint to the Parmesan and lettuce.

“Beautifully prepared”

The restaurant is as delightful as we remembered, with its stylish decor and comfortable seating. The staff are also friendly, which is essential.

Rachel’s Beetroot and Goat’s Cheese Salad with candied walnuts and merlot vinegar also goes down rather well.

Zaid, our waiter, does a terrific job throughout the afternoon, and not long after we ordered, Rachel’s Wheeler’s Fish Cake with soft boiled egg, sauce tartare and buttered leaf spinach proves to be worth it.

There’s a little too much sauce; more seasoning would have helped, but it’s beautifully prepared.

My main is splendid: Marco’s Mixed Roast with pig in blanket, Yorkshire pudding (naturally), roast potatoes, and sides of delicious veg, including garden peas, sage and onion stuffing, baby carrots and braised red cabbage with a hint of cinnamon. We also order a side of crispy onion rings, which are crispy and delicious. And best of all is that gravy, which is a welcome relief after weeks of making my own from granules.

“Restorative power”

Rachel’s Apple and Almond Crumble with ice cream also proves a winner, despite the fact Yorkshire’s most outspoken custard advocate is denied crème anglais. As she was last time.

When I look back on my previous review after the meal, it turns out she ordered exactly the same thing for all three dishes. The one overall opinion is she would have loved a veggie version of my traditional roast, but sadly not an option here.

So, more choice for vegetarians would go down a storm, as well as custard with dessert, but their Sunday lunch (three courses for £27.95) is worth every penny.

A word to the wise: if you do park at the Doubletree Hotel car park (it’s around a fiver for two hours, though there are cheaper alternatives), don’t forget to ask for the code before returning to the gated entry. At least the rain had cleared as I trekked back to reception to do just that, and after the mother of all Sunday lunches, I was glad of the brief walk.

The restorative power of a terrific Sunday lunch in a great restaurant is worth its weight in gold, and you don’t need to be King Midas to eat at Marco Pierre White’s. Just go hungry, and prepare to be dazzled.

Ferensway, Kingston Upon Hull, HU2 8NH
À la Carte: Starters from £7.95; Steaks from £25.95; Burgers £18.95; Mains from £14.95; Desserts from £6.95
Sunday Roast: Two courses £22.50; Three courses £27.95
Autumn set menu: two courses £27.50; three courses £32.50
Kid’s menu: Two courses £12.50; Three courses £15.00
Afternoon tea: £29.95 for two
Festive lunch and dinner: £28.95 for two courses; £32.95 for three courses
OPENING HOURS
Monday – Sunday, Lunch, 12pm – 4pm
Monday – Sunday, Dinner, 5pm – 10pm
mpwrestaurants.co.uk