The Cumberland, York – Restaurant Review
By Graham Clark, April 2026
York has a new refined and elegant dining destination – The Cumberland. With probably more than enough dining options in the historic city, you could be forgiven for thinking there is no more room for another culinary experience in York. On the contrary, The Cumberland is a new destination that is probably not shouting as loudly as it should – at the moment at least, until others discover the restaurant.
What makes The Cumberland different is not only its location alongside the River Ouse, but also the attention to detail, the historic building, exemplary service and a feeling of grandeur, not forgetting food that is fit for a king or queen.
Cumberland House is a Grade I listed building situated on the corner of Cumberland Street and King’s Staith. York Grand Opera House is literally just a few steps away, making the restaurant ideal for a pre-theatre drink or meal. The restaurant entrance is on Cumberland Street and, if you are not aware of it, could easily be missed.
“Inviting atmosphere”
The former solicitors’ office stood empty for three years before owners Shaun and Jamie Leigh-Binns took ownership of the building and restored The Cumberland to its former glory.
The two owners have enough experience to make The Cumberland one of the top places to eat in York – they run the adjacent Lowther and Lil’s restaurants, which also sit beside the Ouse waterfront.
The restaurant has an inviting atmosphere, soothing colours, wooden floors, cosy chairs and a few relaxing booths. The music playing softly in the background was quite interesting: smooth jazz versions of popular songs.
Within minutes of being seated at our table, we were offered water by our server, who, like all the other staff we met, was smartly dressed. Service throughout was attentive but not obtrusive.
“Charm”
Don’t expect to be addressed as “guys” here – you are most likely to be addressed as sir or madam. Not that The Cumberland is stuffy – not at all, as the relaxed vibe here will charm and entice you to become a regular customer.
A Lunch and Light Bites menu is served from noon to 6pm, including a lamb burger, the Cumberland signature hot dog and cured salmon tart, amongst others.
There is also a vegan menu and a gluten-free menu, though most diners will probably go for the main menu.
The drinks list, as you might expect, is extensive, with cocktails, mocktails, spirits, beers and soft drinks.
“Tender and flaky”
My starter of sourdough (£7) was served hot with a seriously creamy bone marrow butter and a herb butter that was not too overwhelming. My dining partner decided upon the ham hock pressing – looking as good as it tasted, this set the standard for what was to follow.
My 10oz rib-eye steak (£32) was bursting with flavour, tenderness and succulence, served with chunky chips and a rich Bordelaise sauce. My dining guest went for the pan-seared salmon with carrot-top pesto, Jersey potato salad and grain mustard dressing.
The tender and flaky interior was wrapped in crispy skin. Surprisingly, the grain mustard dressing complemented the meal – mustard always seems better with meat than fish.
There is always a special of the day. On our visit it was oysters, though our server, even with his gentle persuasion, could not tempt us – we both do not like oysters.
“Superb service”
His suggestion of lemon verbena panna cotta (£12) was acted upon for dessert – a tart and sharp-tasting dish which was far superior to my apple tarte fine (£12). Having sampled the dish in France from Calais to Cannes, the Cumberland version was a little too soggy for my liking, rather than having a crisp pastry casing, and the buttery taste was somewhat lost. However, the caramelised apples brought out their natural sweetness.
As the spring sunshine streamed into The Cumberland, the restaurant glowed in the early evening light. After enjoying a good meal in classic surroundings with superb service, despite all the troubles going on around the planet, the world somehow felt a better place.
With the restaurant facing west and outdoor dining planned for the warmer days, The Cumberland stands tall and proud. Here is a reliable restaurant where expectations are met, with good food, ambience and atmosphere all but guaranteed.
The Cumberland, Cumberland Street, York, YO1 9SR
Open Monday – Sunday 12-9pm
thecumberlandyork.co.uk
images: Graham Clark
Graham was born and raised in Keighley. A dedicated live music enthusiast, he has attended hundreds of concerts across the North and feels fortunate to have Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield and Manchester within easy reach — all key stops on major touring circuits. He has also supported Bradford Live, the upcoming 4,000-capacity venue opening in autumn 2025, helping to secure backing from some of the biggest names in live entertainment. Passionate about food, Graham draws on his background in hospitality to offer honest, experience-led insights in his reviews. He’s also a keen traveller, having explored extensively throughout Europe, America and Asia.
