The Plough, Wombleton – Restaurant Review
By Roger Crow, November 2024
Ah, the humble carrot. How many have we had over the years, and not thought about them because they were undercooked, overcooked or just a bit dull? My default is to peel, top and tail them before cooking until al dente, and then be proud of the fact I’ve got some vitamins into my body. Then there are carrots cooked right, by a self-trained chef worthy of a Michelin star or three.
This honey-glazed, un-topped and un-tailed masterpiece is so moreish I don’t want it to end. But this is just a fraction of the treats that have been lovingly prepared at The Plough in Wombleton. Despite being a few miles from Helmsley, one of my favourite parts of Yorkshire, this is my first visit to a beautiful neighbouring part of the world that sounds like it belongs on CBeebies or is a spin-off from that much-loved saga about litter-conscious creatures from London.
“Ready to be amazed”
I’ve driven 50 miles for this dinner, and my culinary co-pilot and I arrive a little before 2pm, hungry and ready to be amazed.
Lindsey, one of the co-owners, does a terrific job of making us feel at home, and given the roaring fire, super comfy sofa with branded cushion, and excellent bar staff, it’s the sort of place you could happily spend the day.
The Plough is not one of those places that does bar food, but it does cater for those who like a special meal in an idyllic setting. The dining room is relatively small, but the whole establishment caters for quality rather than quantity, and it’s present in every detail, especially the starter, which in my case is salad of treacle-cured organic salmon, prawns, melon, lime and creme freche dressing. It’s a taste sensation.
Rachel opts for Burrata cheese, roast heritage beetroot, beetroot cream, pine nuts & chive oil, which generates plenty of positive vowel sounds, not least because of a delicious crispy cheese wafer.
“The best Sunday lunch we’ve had all year”
Then comes the main, which brings us back to that aforementioned carrot. Obviously, there’s far more on my plate – roast free-range chicken supreme with warm sausage roll.
The mouthwatering tender chicken; perfectly cooked Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, green veg and an artisan sausage roll are all perfect. The gravy with a hint of red wine, is equally terrific.
Staff are obviously everything in any restaurant and both Lindsey and Olive do a fabulous job of delivering the best Sunday lunch we’ve had all year.
Her main is tarte with mushrooms, spinach and tomato, and mushroom gravy, especially made for veggie dishes. Again it goes down so well, there’s barely anything left on the plate.
We share a bowl of the most delicious cauliflower cheese imaginable; the veg is perfectly cooked but that dopamine hit of cheese Is everything.
“Just the ticket”
Rachel and I finish by sharing a chocolate mousse with chocolate sauce and chocolate ice cream. I’m glad we do share because it’s so rich, and I need to dash back to Howden. We promise that next time we’ll stay longer, and won’t need much of an excuse to return one day. On a slate-grey November, this is just the ticket for easing those autumn/winter blues.
Thankfully I get to thank Richard, the chef, personally just before we head off. I’m not surprised the dining room is full, or that every dish has been prepared so lovingly. He and Lindsey have a terrific business that delivers everything you could want from a perfect pub.
Just a shame it’s not on our doorstep because we’d go every week.
The Plough, Main Street, Wombleton, York, YO62 7RW
Opening Times:
Monday to Saturday: 12:00 PM – 11:00 PM
Sunday: 12:00 PM – 10:30 PM
Images: Olivia Brabb
