Restaurant 1650 at Ye Olde Bell – Review

By Kirsty Masterman
With a distinguished guest book containing the likes of Bing Crosby, Charlie Chaplin and Shirley Bassey, I know from the outset that tonight will be something of a special occasion. As I pull up outside Ye Olde Bell Inn, I know I’m right. This is my kind of place.
With an impressive façade adorned with ivy and traditional timber, it immediately sets the tone for the inviting yet traditional ambience of the inn. As I step inside, I am immediately struck by the décor – a fine balance of old-world charm sitting alongside more contemporary features for that extra touch of luxury. The oak beams, roaring fireplaces and antique furnishings nod to the inn’s heritage, while huge, ornate, gilt-framed mirrors, heavy draped velvet curtains, oak-panelled walls, leaded windows and antique furniture lend the hotel an air of grandeur.
A quintessentially British inn, Ye Olde Bell is steeped in history, charm and elegance. Nestled in the serene countryside on the border of Nottinghamshire, Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, this gem of a 17th-century coaching inn offers an exquisite blend of traditional character and modern luxury. From its beautifully restored interiors to its exceptional dining options, Ye Olde Bell caters to guests seeking a refined yet relaxed dining experience, and I am here to sample just that at the recently revamped 1650 restaurant.
There’s a new chef in town – Terry Phillips – and with him, he’s brought a seven-course tasting extravaganza to the inn’s 1650 restaurant.
“Elegant yet casual”
Terry Phillips has recently taken up the position of Executive Chef at 1650. Having previously worked for athletes at London 2012 and at Chatsworth House, he certainly knows his way around a kitchen and is currently breathing new life into the concept of fine dining.
With a dining experience that showcases locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, the menu is both creative and rooted in classic British cuisine. Paired with an extensive wine list carefully curated to complement the dishes, I can’t wait to see what’s on the menu tonight.
As I am shown to my table, I am immediately struck by the striking Art Deco-inspired illuminated bar, lined with bottles of champagne – quite a contrast to the gorgeous oak panelling, leaded windows and huge chandeliers that also adorn the room. The tables are laid with black cloths and white napkins, artfully displayed, while a polished metal lamp atop the table provides a subtle, warm glow by which to dine, also highlighting the gleaming cutlery and sparkling glassware. This is indeed an elegant yet casual dining space that feels cosy and inviting.
The experience begins with a selection of canapés – foie gras on toasted brioche, oyster with Guinness-braised ox cheek, and beef carpaccio with pickled strawberry.
The tang of the oyster perfectly complements the ox cheek, while the beef carpaccio, presented on a white spoon, marries perfectly with the pickled strawberry, placed delicately on top. Oddly enough, the combination of meat and fruit is sublime. It is clear Phillips knows what he is doing.
“Impossibly tender”
Next to be served is the beetroot and gin-cured salmon gravlax with textures of cucumber. As delicious as it is visually appealing, the beetroot just kisses the salmon’s pink flesh, leaving its mark. Silky on the tongue, the salmon’s soft texture contrasts perfectly with the crunchy cucumber rolls, interspersed with dots of cucumber gel, making it both visually stunning and delicious.
As the courses continue to arrive, each is presented exquisitely.
Next up is braised pork belly and cheek, with textures of carrot, ginger and coriander. Thankfully for me, the coriander is merely used as a garnish. The cheek meat is impossibly tender and bursting with flavour, while the shards of crackling scattered around the plate, interspersed with crystallised ginger cubes, are just as tasty. The carrot is served as a purée and is simply bursting with taste.
“Velvety”
A champagne and elderflower sorbet, topped with a fresh mint leaf, makes for an excellent palate cleanser before the hotly anticipated duck course arrives.
Whilst everything so far has hit the mark, this is by far my favourite. As a huge fan of duck, I am eager to see what the chef has done with this course, and I am not disappointed. The gently crisped, roasted duck breast is served alongside perfectly soft and tasty confit leg croquettes, coated in a golden outer crust, with braised sweetheart cabbage and cherries. The cherries, perfectly married with the rich game meat, create a velvety texture on the palate.
“Contrast”
With the savoury dishes complete, it is time to see what sweet treats the chef has in store. Enter a trio of apple desserts – apple crumble tart, an apple shot, and apple and Calvados crème brûlée. As a fan of apple-based desserts, this is extremely pleasing. The contrast in textures and temperatures – from the rich, buttery, melt-in-the-mouth pastry of the spiced apple-filled tart to the ice cream melting atop – is simply a treat for the tastebuds. The crack of the crème brûlée topping reveals a layer of cream hiding a delicate apple compote, while the apple shot, aptly served in a shot glass, provides a contrast of flavours.
Throughout the evening, the staff provide a warm and attentive service, ensuring guests feel welcome and well cared for, all while maintaining a timely and professional approach.
“Delivers”
This inn certainly delivers on all fronts.
As the evening comes to a close and I savour what’s left of my Argentinian Rioja, I’m handed a plate of handmade truffles – Amaretto and pistachio, coconut and dark chocolate, and coffee mocha.
I just about manage to finish these before heading off with a very happy stomach.
With a rotating menu every four weeks, it’s fair to say I’ll be back sooner rather than later.
Ye Olde Bell, Barnby Moor, Retford, DN22 8QS
The Restaurant 1650 Tasting Menu is available on Friday evenings from 6:30pm and costs £65 per person, with the accompanying wine flight available at an additional cost of £35 per person. Booking is essential for these evenings, and a vegetarian version of this seven-course extravaganza is also available. and it should be noted that there is a Vegetarian version of this 7-course extravaganza.
yeoldebell-hotel.co.uk