The Dalesman, Sedbergh – Review

By Roger Crow, August 2024

Like one-armed bandits, we all have those personal tumblers which slot into place occasionally. One of mine is arty things, ideally a thriving artistic hub in the heart of spectacular landscape. Fairfield Mill is all that and more. Thanks to a rare spot of immaculate timing, Mrs Crow and I have made the 124-mile journey from home to Cumbria and arrived at said establishment for our tour with a minute to spare. Located in a former woollen mill dating back to 1836, Farfield Mill (Garsdale Road, Sedbergh, LA10 5LW) is a unique cultural venue where we discover incredible artists. Visitors can also learn a new skill or shop for unusual gifts and textiles.

“Creative hub”

We’re shown around the establishment by (the brilliant) Clare Huggonson, who tells us the history of the place and shows us the assorted workshops where artists and craftspeople create inspiring works. There are photorealistic pastel renderings of wildlife; cabinets of jewellery; artefacts crafted from horse nails, and so much more. I’m taken back to my days as an art student 35-plus years ago, which was also a very happy place, and it’s encouraging to see such great work being crafted at such an inspiring area. The looms and tech associated with an ages-old skill is remarkable, and dominate the spaces, while the historic of the site and some of the characters involved in its foundations add a rich depth to our visit.

No creative hub thrives without a decent cafe, and Fairfield Mill has one of the best – the cappuccinos are outstanding as is the coffee and walnut cake; another couple of tumblers in my personal fruit machine of joy slot into place. The fact the staff are so amiable is an added bonus.

We’re told we have to visit a local bookshop a few miles up the road, and don’t need much persuasion. It’s been set up in a former cinema, and suddenly another tumbler clicks into place. A vast array of books line its shelves, and I’m in my element again, browsing movie tomes, biographies and, well, you get the idea.

Arant Haw room inside The Dalesman

“Beautifully decorated”

The main reason for our visit is to check out one of the new rooms at The Dalesman (Main Street, Sedbergh, LA10 5BN), a beautiful pub/hostelry nestled in the heart of town which has a welcoming bar, staff and dining area.

After a good walk around town on a slate-grey bank holiday Monday, we check in and are shown to our room via winding corridors and up a couple of flights of stairs. As a side note, the key fob is a work of art – copperplate text on a strip of polished stone. Yes, it’s a little thing, but also another of those personal tumblers clicks in.

The room itself does not disappoint either. If tall, like me, you’ll need to duck under the (thankfully padded) archway to enter the main room. It’s a beautifully decorated space with exposed wooden beams, dominated by a huge, comfortable bed, an elegant bath; a hi-def TV on the wall, and elegant chairs. There are gizmos on the wall and handheld devices which operate the blinds both for the windows and skylights. The spotless bathroom is equally fabulous, featuring twin sinks, heated towel rail and a glorious waterfall shower which is thankfully simple to operate; not always a given in some hostelries.

Shower

“Warm and welcoming”

There’s also a blue tooth mirror which means you can pair up your music devices and listen to favourite tracks while soaking up the wonders of that shower.

Rachel and I freshen up and relax for an hour or two, and though it’s a little chilly until 5pm, once the heat kicks in, we’re wonderfully toasty. Another major happy ‘tumbler’ clicks home.

At 7pm we settle in to a glorious restaurant area for dinner. The stone walls look so formidable, they could probably withstand a hurricane, but it’s never a cold space; just warm and welcoming. That’s partly down to Carol, who does a terrific job of catering to our assorted requests. I opt for a starter of curried chicken ballotine in a Thai sauce with squash bhaji, which kicks like a mule, but is just the sort of intense flavour I love.

Curried Chicken Ballotine, Thai sauce, squash bhaji

“Near perfect”

Rachel’s starter is a spiced, seared tofu in satay sauce with spring onion salsa, a wonderful veggie option

My main is equally fabulous: tempura-battered haddock with triple-cooked chunky chips, tartare sauce, and though garden peas aren’t an option, my culinary co-pilot is happy to devour the marrowfat mushy peas.

The haddock is beautifully cooked; the batter has a delightful crispy crunch and the chips are endlessly moreish. Washed down with a pint of the local beer (Loweswater Gold), once more I’m in my element.

Rachel’s butternut squash ravioli with fine beans and toasted hazelnut is an acquired taste, and some of the accompanying veg is a little oily, but it’s far from a deal-breaker. For dessert Rachel and I split an iced Snickers (toffee purée, chocolate sauce and peanut brittle), which rounds off a near-perfect meal.

A dessert example at The Dalesman, Coconut and Mango Panna Cotta with Petit Fruit Salad and Mango Sorbet

“Work of art”

We retire for the night as staff are setting up the breakfast things. Our room has motion-activated lights which are a bit of a blessing and a curse when the bathroom light seems to turn itself on for no apparent reason, and the super thick duvet in late August, when the weather doesn’t know whether it’s summer or autumn means a bit of one leg out, one leg in arrangement. One key problem is the sound: external doors on our floor do not close quietly, so a spot of soundproofing would make a good night’s sleep even better as neighbours let a door slam, occasionally to cacophonous levels. Again, not a deal-breaker, and the pros far outweigh the cons of our stay.

Breakfast is served between 8am and 9am, and does not disappoint. In fact when my full English arrives with a pot of coffee, it’s a work of art: beautifully cooked fried egg, bacon, sausage, fried bread, black pudding, bacon, mushrooms, toast. It’s an absolute masterpiece crafted from local produce. (The sausage alone deserves a round of applause it’s that good). Rachel’s veggie full English also receives praise, and again the service is second to none.

Dalesman bar area

“Wealth of memories”

With a heavy heart, we pack up and get ready for the drive back home. But first there’s time to visit a few of the local shops; an array of local cafes, bookshops, restaurants and browsable stores which should enhance any curious traveller’s desire.

Eighteen miles from Sedbergh is Wensleydale, so we have to visit the shop on the way home, which is a must not only for Wallace and Gromit fans, due to the amount of merch, but anyone who loves one of the world’s finest cheeses. Safe to say all the tumblers on my happy fruit machine lined up and the pay-out is a wealth of memories. We wouldn’t need much of an excuse to visit either The Dalesman, or the equally wonderful Fairfield Mill next time we’re in the region. To paraphrase the title of a beloved Wallace and Gromit classic, a ‘grand day (or two) out’ it most definitely was.

The Dalesman Country Inn, Main Street, Sedbergh, Cumbria, LA10 5BN

For more information: www.visitlakedistrict.com – the official tourism guide for the region
Go to www.thedalesman.co.uk for details of how to book.
Farfield Mill is part of Cumbria Tourism’s Let’s Go Culture project, The Let’s Go Culture project is funded by the UK government through the UK Shared Prosperity Fund and is supported by Westmorland & Furness Council