Jurys Inn, Leeds – Restaurant Review
By Rebecca Tredget
Fresh from a £1m facelift – was it money well spent? Well, part of the spending was on Jurys Inn’s restaurant which is now resplendent out in warm, rich colours and nice, intimate booths. In fact, it really doesn’t feel like you’re dining in a hotel restaurant at all.
I’d assumed it would be fairly quiet on the night seeing as it was a Tuesday evening in the somewhat set-back location of Brewery Wharf. But in actual fact the restaurant has a lovely quiet hum of customers and all the tables around us are taken. I am surprised to see it isn’t just solitary business people dining too but families, couples and friends. So far, Jurys Inn is full of surprises.
I’m a glutton for a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc so I spy the Villa Maria (a bottle is £23.95) as soon as we are handed the menu. It is light and crisp, with a lovely fruity, gooseberry-ness. The kind of wine that has you hankering after sunny evenings eating al fresco. Needless to say I enjoy drinking it a great deal. For starters I order from the specials and have Duck Rolls with Noodle Salad (£4.50).
“Best things really do come in small packages”
My date orders the Potted Smoked Mackerel, Pickled Cucumber and Ciabatta (£4.50). The crispy duck rolls are sat on a bed of gently spiced noodles and rocket and are the perfect balance of sweet and chilli. The duck rolls are beautifully deep fried, crisp without being greasy and full of delicious, tender duck. My only ‘complaint’ is that it is huge. The dish can easily be half the size! Not a problem for most people, but I’m loathe to leave my main course aside following a fit of starter gluttony. My partner’s Potted Smoked Mackerel was a more modest size. The mackerel is deliciously flavourful. It is in a sweetcorn mix that adds a fantastic contrast to the salty fish and crispy ciabatta. The pickled cucumber slices cut through it all like a vinegary palate cleanser.
For mains I opt for the 8oz Ribeye Steak £18.95 with a portion of Fries (£3.00) and a Rocket & Parmesan Salad (£3.00). My dining partner chooses the Salmon Fillet with Prawn Tagliatelle in a Garlic and Cream Sauce (£14.50). My steak is beautifully cooked, very rare and is a perfectly formed cut of meat. Proof that the best things really do come in small packages. It is accompanied by a peppercorn sauce (you have a choice of peppercorn sauce or garlic butter with the steaks) which sadly isn’t as exceptional as the meat. It is lacklustre and would benefit from some whole peppercorns.
“Pasta dish is colossal”
The fries are piping hot and crisp and I enjoy the salad (I always feel obligated to order vegetables, I’m sure they cancel out all the butter & oil!) more than usual. Piled high with shavings of parmesan it is a welcome freshness against the meaty richness of the steak. My date’s pasta dish is colossal. There really is no other word. A lovely and moist salmon fillet sits on top of a mountain of pasta doused in delicious creamy garlic sauce. Everything is cooked brilliantly, from the al dente pasta to the prawns (of which there are multitudes).
My date’s only reservation is that the sauce is absolutely steaming hot. Even after letting it rest for a while it is still inedible for a period. It also comes with two slices of garlic bread which is a tad unnecessarily with the size of the dish. We won’t pretend they went uneaten, however…
“I could spend hours wiling away the time”
I am an absolute sucker for a gooey, melty middle chocolate cake so I go for the Warm Chocolate Fondant (£4.50). My date decides to go for the Lemon Cheesecake (£4.50). The Chocolate Fondant is entirely promising when it arrives, sitting on a drizzle of berry with a scoop of creamy vanilla ice-cream on top. But unfortunately it is under cooked. It is a perfectly lovely, rich, warm chocolate cake – but a fondant it is not. My date’s pudding fares better. The Lemon Cheesecake has a lovely ginger, biscuity base with a sharp citrus cheesecake. On top is a small mountain of ripe winter fruits – all very pleasing on the eye and mouth!
I am pleasantly surprised by my visit to Jurys Inn. The atmosphere and décor of the restaurant says understated class and I really could spend hours wiling away the time in one of the booths. It also doesn’t feel like a hotel restaurant. In fact for the most part of the meal I forget there is a hotel directly above us. Some of the food isn’t spot on (I’m still pretty sad about that fondant). But I can forgive them because everything else was just so very pleasant!
0113 283 8800
Brewery Place, Brewery Wharf, Leeds, LS10 1NE
The restaurant is open 6.30am-10am for breakfast weekdays, 6.30am-11am weekends and public holidays and 6pm-10pm everyday for dinner.
A 3 course meal for 2 with bottle of wine was roughly £80