Tonic and Remedy, Shoreditch, London – Restaurant Review
Tonic and Remedy, Shoreditch, London
by Jen Grimble
Having opened its doors less than three months ago, Tonic & Remedy is therefore the most current restaurant on the block. Situated inside the luxury M By Montcalm hotel in Shoreditch, the bar and eaterie prides itself on quality and design, maintaining the 5-star grandeur that its homestead bares.
As you approach the dramatic and angular glass structure of the hotel, it demands attention. Modern London architecture meets Abu Dhabi-inspired skyscrapers. It is a shark-like prism of a building. You enter into a trendy ground floor bar. Mood lighting and high tables lead up to a mezzanine where the restaurant awaits. Floor-to-ceiling windows create light and structure, removing the barrier between interior and exterior.
The décor is sharp and modern. It is inspired by British artist Bridget Riley who is renowned for her use of shapes and angles. The room is filled with points of interest, from elegant textiles to wooden panels, creating an entire wall of art. Industrial light fixtures, concrete and brushed steel are softened against rich blues and burnt oranges.
The vibe is perfect for late morning cocktails – and this is exactly where we begin. Apothecary infusions and breakfast staples give the drinks here a natural, herbal zing. The Lady Marmalade (£11) is a dainty blend of Blue Vodka, Cointreau, orange bitters, house-made grapefruit marmalade, Campari and Champagne. This breakfast-inspired tantaliser has a sweet kick that is enough to perk up even the sleepiest of customers. Others may prefer a full-bodied cup of coffee. Or a pot of classic English Breakfast tea, served in a traditional Oriental Hobnail Teapot (from £1.50).
Then things begin to get serious. Executive Chef and Yorkshireman Paul Welburn, who cut his teeth at The Star Inn in Harome, has curated an impressive new brunch menu. The G&T-infused Salmon is faultlessly flavoursome and beautifully presented. Small cubes of fish, circles of avocado mousse and diced cucumber come served on a canvas of sour-dough toast.
This classic dish is presented like a piece of Riley’s art and tastes even better than it looks. The ‘Egg Benedict’ is another classic that gets the Welburn treatment. Buttery toast is covered in thinly sliced ham, perfectly poached eggs and a creamy hollandaise sauce. Though not quite as aesthetically impressive as the former dish, this is likely to be the best Eggs Benedict you will ever eat. Available in small or large portions (£8/£15) these dishes are beautiful, clean and artistically curated.
To finish your lazy afternoon of brunching Tonic and Remedy supply three desserts. The Gooseberry Pudding (£7) features steamed sponge filled with a warm, fruity compote. Served with refreshing yoghurt and a deep berry ice cream, this light treat has a perfect flavour balance. For a more indulgent option try the “Snick-ola,” a sugary, chocolate infusion of ice cream, peanuts, home-made granola, chocolate sauce and lashings of salted caramel. Layered in a trifle glass, this sticky and rich pudding will please anyone with a sweet tooth.
Open from 12pm daily Tonic and Remedy offers brunch from as little as £8 and three courses for just £25. So forget what you thought you knew about brunch because the food here is probably unlike anything you’ve had before. Reflecting the building that houses it, this sleek, ultra-modern and dangerously stylish gastronomy is endlessly pleasing. The future seems very bright for this fledgling eaterie. They have mastered a unique style in such a short space of time,
Opens Monday – Thursday 12 – 22:30
Friday & Saturday 12:00 – 23:00
Sunday 12 – 22:00