The Old Bakery, Lincoln – Restaurant Review
The Old Bakery, Lincoln
by Paul Howard
The Old Bakery dates back to 1837. It is conveniently found a few hundred yards from the major Lincoln historical attractions in the Cathedral Quarter. For the past seven years, Ivano and Tracey de Serio have owned it in partnership with Tracey’s parents Alan and Lyn Ritson. Ivano is an award winning Italian Chef who skillfully exploits Lincoln’s wealth of fresh, local and seasonal produce in a contemporary European style.
Tracey and Alan complement this by taking care of front of house duties with friendly attention. There are three dining rooms. Two are charmingly rustic inside The Old Bakery itself. There is also an air-con Garden Room extension for another forty covers.
“Menu packed with interest”
We dine there, in a light and airy space akin to a conservatory in a calming olive green colour. White linen contrasts with the warmth of weathered brick walls. We sip glasses of Prosecco from Carpenè Malvoti while examining an extensive menu and wine list that is packed with interest. My starter is a delicious ostrich carpaccio, served with a creamy pecorino and lemon mousse. My partner enjoys sautéed girolles with a tarragon and pea granita. To wash these delights down we choose an unusual white wine. Japanese Koshu from Grace Winery near Mount Fuji is reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc and makes a crystalline foil for the food.
Choosing from the tempting main courses takes time. Finally, we both elect the perfectly pink rack of lamb with a stack of Mediterranean char-grill vegetables. A bottle of Nippozano Chianti Rufina Riserva, with inviting fragrances and wild berry fruit, partner the melting quality of the lamb perfectly. Freshly made ice cream is a speciality. Mexican dark chocolate delice comes with a glass of Manzanilla Pasada, an inspired suggestion. As are Strawberries and Gran Marnier ice cream – irresistible with Moscato d’Asti.
“A memorable experience”
There is a well-kept cheeseboard that includes Lincolnshire Poacher, Wigmore, Colston Bassett and Cote Hill Blue. The Old Bakery has more to offer besides. The delicatessen is a brand new addition, featuring ingredients used in the kitchen and if you want to get hands-on there’s also a cookery school. Alan Ritson is an impresario too; he books musicians locally and you might bump into Eliza Carthy, Kate Rusby or The Unthanks during your stay.
While the accommodation cannot match the spectacular dining, it is comfortable, clean and well priced. So it’s ideal for a weekend break. Breakfast includes a stupendous Lincolnshire Poacher cheese omelette. During this relaxed start, we shared stories with Irish bards Kieran Goss and Ann Kinsella, who are celebrating the end of their European tour. The Old Bakery offers a memorable experience. We’ll be booking again soon.
The Old Bakery, 26/28 Burton Road, Lincoln, LN1 3LB